
A slow evening of Kashmir's ceremonial cuisine.
The story
Wazwan is the 36-course feast of Kashmiri weddings, cooked by hereditary wazas over days. Our family's waza prepares a homestead version of it for our guests: seven courses, served on the trema (copper platter), eaten with the hands as it should be. Between courses he will show you the dum techniques that make rogan josh taste like itself.